Just at the moment York City Council is digging up most of the city streets (which are called Gates in York, and the gates are called Bars), which is making any visit to the City awful. Some streets are blocked off, the noise is dreadful, metal fencing, diggers, it must be unbearable for those who are shopkeepers. York is divided by the River Ouse, and the quieter side runs up hill from the river to the south west. This map has just one bridge crossing the river, now there are three. So on a bright, sunny, autumn morning I ventured across Ouse Bridge (in the centre of the map) and wandered up Micklegate. Do come with me. I just look at things, and see where they take me. You could just dash past this doorway, but look, there are two little lions, and two lovely ferns, two flowers beneath and a lovely fan light, and a reflection of the houses on the other side of Micklegate, showing the different styles of architecture, the flat fronted brick built Georgian houses, and the old medieval gable ended houses. Let's start with one of the important houses. This is Bathurst House, fortunately in the sunshine, and a nice link with the Yorkshire Dales because it was built by Charles Bathurst of the CB Inn in Arkengarthdale fame. This was his town house. He was a High Sheriff of Yorkshire in 1727, and no doubt impressed his guests at this lovely house. An unusual angle, but it is always a good idea to look up. I was given to understand that Bathurst House was one of the earliest to have guttering and pipes to take the rain off the roof. Lead was not a problem to Charles Bathurst, there was plenty of it in Arkengarthdale. Right at the top there is a letter "B", and a very fancy down pipe. I have been in this house as at one time our accountants had their office here. This is another rather grand house, called Garforth House, the plaque on the wall says that it was once a girls' school. I was rather taken by the ornate iron work at each side of the door. Was it to hold some sort of lantern or torch? Here is William Garforth, what a lovely velvet coat. This painting is by Charles Jervas 1675 - 1739 [or follower of] and is at the Merchant Adventurers' Hall in York and on the ArtUk website. He supported the widows of the Merchant Adventurers out of an income from this house. He became a Governor of the company and a Freeman of the City of York. More lovely houses opposite Garforth House. The Georgians knew how to create pleasing architecture, the attention to detail and ornamentation makes Micklegate feel very grand. There were many county families who had town houses on Micklegate, with all their servants, and in between ordinary tradespeople, shops, inns and churches. The 1791 Universal British Directory listed the principal inhabitants of York, the ones living in Micklegate are highlighted. Quite a few! Mrs Bourchier William Caddy Esq Countess Cunningham Mr Fisher Esq J Fothergill Esq Mrs Macdonald Mr Patterson Esq Mr J Swann Esq William Taylor Esq Major Thompson Mr Wand Esq And another link to the Yorkshire Dales, the Rev Mr Costabadie had a house in Micklegate. Was this the same as the Vicar of Wensley or a member of his family? Someone will tell me. The Mrs Bourchier, above, lived at Micklegate House. This is described as the most important Georgian house in York. It was built by John Bourchier of Beningbrough Hall in 1752. For details of the architecture you can read this page on the City of York website. After Mrs Bourchier's time the house was lived in by the Crompton family, and fortunately Henrietta Maria Crompton left diaries and letters (at North Yorkshire County Record Office). The Cromptons had several country houses but used this is their town house when they were in York. The Cromptons were originally bankers, made money and had an estate called Wood End near Thornton le Street, near Thirsk. Joshua Crompton had the grand house on Lendal in York called the Judges Lodging, now a hotel. After he sold this he moved to Micklegate House, the grandest of Micklegate's houses. Through his marriage he also acquired Esholt Hall in the West Riding. This is from the York Herald 4 January 1834 and illustrates why the great and the good would be in their town houses. From Henrietta Maria Crompton's diary for the 16th January 1834 - Morning of the Great County Ball benefit Bar walls. Mr and Mrs Fawkes arrived at 4 then Lady Stourton, Joshua and Robert slept at the Falcon. Mr Serjeantson, Mr Warde, Mr Maxwell at dinner, 15. To the ball at 10. 560 persons present. Lady Mexbro, Howden, Charlotte Fox, Elizabeth Lowther, Muncaster, Ramsden, Lady Henry Powlett, arrived home at 4 o'c all enjoyed it. I sat still and thought of other things. This is the Crompton household in 1851, some years after the Ball of 1834. Henrietta Maria heads the household, she never married and gave her age as 56 in 1851. She had two sisters with her, Margaret and Caroline, and an aunt Jane Rookes (Henrietta's mother was a Rookes), there was one visitor, Mary Brockhill from Dishforth, and nine servants. Micklegate House is now a Safestay Hostel. A bit further along Mickelgate (I am dodging about from one part to another) this intriguing plaque is behind some ornate railings in front of another grand house. I am familiar with the name of Backhouse, associated with the Quaker banking family in Darlington, and did not know they had a York connection. The York Civic Trust have a page all about James Backhouse here . And here are the Backhouses in the 1851 census, next door to the Cromptons. James Backhouse described himself as Nurseryman and Seedsman occupying 79 acres employing 34 men, 9 women and 5 boys, born Darlington. His son, another James was also in the same business. Elizabeth Backhouse, sister of the first James, also born in Darlington, was a Bank and Railway Share holder, and they had a cook and a housemaid. Now I am going up to the top of Micklegate to look at some very different architecture. I cannot tell you how long I had to wait to take the photograph above! Where the red A board is on the pavement there is a take-away coffee shop, and that part of the pavement was constantly occupied by people waiting to be served and then eating and drinking! What caught my eye on this rather lovely old building is the animal which could be a lamb, or a calf ...? and the numbers 176.... couldn't make out the rest. But the building is surely far older than 1760 something or other. This shows the overhanging jetties of a medieval construction and exposed timbers. Has this building always looked like this? Compare and contrast - A sketch by Gilbert Foster in one of Edmund Bogg's Yorkshire guide books printed 1904. And an illustration in Charles Brunton Knight's guide "This is York" 1951. And picture called "The corner of Micklegate" by James H Bakes [1862 - after 1930] at the York Museum Trust and on the ArtUk website. All of which go to show that the black and white building at the top of Micklegate was not always a black and white building! And all these later sketches have not included the rain water down-spout! The York Conservation Trust has an interpretation and history of these buildings here. There is a lot more to see, churches, little snickets or snickleways between the houses , much more. Micklegate has Roman origins, and is still being built upon. On the opposite corner to the picture above is a Huge Hole where buildings have been demolished and are now being re developed. What style of architecture I wonder? Next time I will explore a bit further.
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